Music, arts, food, culture, sports, shopping, great pubs and funfilled nightlife. Cork’s got it all. Here’s our 24 hour guide to the “real capital.”
By Padraic O’Connor
County Cork, especially West Cork and towns like Kinsale are perennially popular with tourists from Ireland and abroad, especially tourists of the gourmet foodie kind, but you shouldn’t forget a stopover in Cork city itself if you’re heading down south for a few nights.
Situated on the sometimes-sunny southern coast of Ireland, Cork is the second largest city in the country where the local lovable langers have a propensity for proclaiming the city as being the “real capital” of Ireland, and who are we to argue?
Though the city is well known for its annual Jazz Festival and in the last few years for the Live at The Marquee festival that happens every summer, it’s well worth a trip to Cork outside of these busy times to sample the city’s delights.
There are a wealth of ways to while away your day from sticking to the cultural side of things, shopping or just sitting in many of the wonderfully welcoming local pubs and watching the world go by over a pint or three of Beamish or Murphys. No Guinness please, you’re in Cork now boy!
One quick word of advice though; any trip to Cork is completely wasted without consulting the entertainment bible that is www.corkentertainment.ie. Absolutely everything of interest in the city is up on the site, from live events, pubs, club, what to do, where to stay and where to eat, so it’s an essential port of call for any visitors.
9am
Fry-up you say? Right then. Well if you’re down south during the week then Nash 19 on Princes Street is your only man but if you’re in Cork on the weekend then you won’t do much better than the brunch menu at Hardwood on Popes Quay where eggs of any persuasion, the ubiquitous fry-up or a healthy fruit option are available.
If you fancy breakfast on the go then wander into the grand English Market, feast your eyes and your nostrils on the mouthwatering stalls of fish, meat, veg and all foodstuffs local and international before grabbing an O’Flynn’s sausage in a roll (with the obligatory onions and chilli sauce) and you’re off to the best start to the day a man can have.
10am
Bolstered by your healthy or calorific breakfast you’ll need to get out and about for a wee stroll. We’d recommend a walk through the glorious grounds of UCC. Only five minutes from the city centre it’s a lovely stroll on a sunny day and there are always interesting exhibitions held on campus, especially in the Glucksmann Gallery (http://www.glucksman.org/).
Lunch
If you enjoy your food then there are few better places in the country than Cork city. If you want the healthy but ridiculously tasty route the funky and vegetarian Cafe Paradiso www.cafeparadiso.ie is a must.
Market Lane on Oliver Plunkett Street does a tasty line in lunches and has a great €10 lunch deal (soup, half sandwich, chocolate pot and coffee) while if you’re after hearty grub along the sarnies, burgers variety then Currans on Adelaide Street is what you’re looking for.
For pizza or pasta lovers the ever-reliable Café Bar Deli on Academy Street is open all day but if it’s a good old fashioned Sunday lunch or carvery you’re after then jump in your car or a taxi (if you’re drinking) and head out the airport road to Bull McCabes, you won’t be disappointed!
3pm
If you fancy a bit of culture then the Crawford Gallery beside the impressive Opera House is well worth a visit.
Patrick Street and indeed much of the city centre has been renovated in the last ten years; in part to do with Cork being designated European city of culture in 2005. And yes, they still talk about it! So it’s well worth a stroll around town in the afternoon, with plenty of shops and cafes and of course the aforementioned English Market to pop in and out of.
But seeing as you’d probably have got your walking in earlier in the morning we’d advise that you relax and pop into a fine local hostelry for an afternoon pint (you’re on holidays after all). You can step back in time (no mobile phones allowed) with a pint of Beamish or Murphy’s in the quirky and legendary Cork institution the Hi B on Oliver Plunkett Street or enjoy a locally brewed glass or two of Blarney Blonde ale from the Franciscan Well Brewery.
Of course if it’s a weekend then you may just want to catch some sport on the TV, Soho on Grand Parade, with its many big screens is always busy for all games.
Dinner
Funky Irish food with a twist is the order of the day in An Cruibin/The Silk Purse on Union Quay (check out their quirky blog/site here), where “elegance and debauchery go hand in hand”. Run by a young enthusiastic crew of lovable lunatics it’s been described by the ever so annoying Tom Doorley as “arguably Cork’s coolest pub” where you can enjoy “some brilliant tapas”.
For noodles freaks then the ever-dependable Wagamama is a popular choice while if you fancy spicing it up even more then Indian restaurant Bombay Palace on Cook Street is a popular choice with locals.
If you’re planning on pushing the boat out a little and enjoying top quality cooking and local produce then a meal in Jacques www.jacquesrestaurant.ie on Phoenix Street is essential. Their €25 or €35 menus are mouthwateringly delicious and great value if you don’t fancy going Á la Carte.
9pm
There’s a plethora of pubs, from the dark and dingy with savage pints variety through to the cool and funky with live music and DJs to choose from. Mutton Lane, with its candlelit dark corners and seriously tasty pints would be a prime example of the former, while music bars like the Roundy on Coal Quay or Réalt Dearg on Barrack Street attract a cool local crowd.
Late night student revelry takes place in Fionnbarra’s where the popular beer garden is always rammed while if you fancy letting your hair down to a night of heavy metal, indie or alternative rock look no farther than Fred Zeppelins on Parliament Street.
Nightlife
Locals throng in their droves to the likes of Reardens on Washington Street or Havana Browns on Hanover Street for late night messing while the Savoy Theatre look after everything from top national and international djs and live acts to their very popular Electric Dreams 80s night.
The Pavilion Bar and live venue/club www.pavilioncork.com is the funky alternative for the real capital, with jazz, soul and disco in the late bar from residents like Stevie G and the “not how, When!” crew while upstairs you can hear everything from live trad, folk, hip-hop and rock to house and techno from the likes of local legends Fish Go Deep.
The lowdown…
Where?
On the sunny south coast, the real capital has a blossoming music, arts and food scene and is a great place to spend or indeed lose a weekend.
Getting there
Easily accessible by road, rail and even by air (though there’ll be tut-tutting about the air miles, you inconsiderate planet-killing animal!). There are regular train and bus services from all over the country while our wonderful new and improved roads make it easier and quicker than ever to drive to Cork from all over the country.
Where to stay
The Imperial Hotel on the city’s South Mall is centrally located and literally a stone’s throw from the buzzing pubs, shops and restaurants in the city centre.
Overlooking the River Lee and facing The Clarion Hotel is just 5 minutes walk from Cork’s city centre with plush modern rooms and free use of the hotel’s spa and pool. You can advance purchase (non-refundable) rooms from €76.50 a night and there are special offers always up on the hotels website.
For herself
She certainly won’t be disappointed with the shopping on offer in Cork city centre or at the Mahon Point Centre in Blackrock. Shops range from the well know stores like H & M and Zara through to local vintage boutiques like Turquoise Flamingo on Washington Street. She may also want to treat herself with a funky hairdo from the lovely chicas at Guapa, Cork’s coolest hair salon on Tuckey Street.
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